Car Battery

[Stinsy]

With your use you will quickly kill a new battery! The problem is you're taking power out of the battery running the alarm/computer/etc. while it is stationary, then taking out a big lump of power to start the engine, but not replacing it by driving at motorway speeds for 20-30mins.

How old is that 4A charger? Have you measured the voltage across the terminals while it is operating? Sometimes the varnish fails on the transformer windings resulting in power that should be going into the battery instead warming up the transformer... In any case a 4A charger would have been designed for the sort of batteries used a few decades ago. Assuming it is working correctly it'll still work but you'll need to leave it connected for a few days to a week. A few hours won't do anything.

Our "dirty diesel" Audi A4, that I've owned from new, is now 10 years old and has 120k-ish miles on it. It is used most days but for short trips so I charge it a few times a year with a 20A charger (this one : https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004RFQ1K2) I leave it on charge for 24hrs or so and the original battery is still doing a decent job.

A 10W solar charger will provide about 0.8A for 5-ish hours on a typical sunny summer day, if angled correctly. But it'll do bugger all on a cloudy day or if not correctly oriented.

Maybe a Leaf would be a better tool for the job?

[JR]

The 4 amp battery charger is vintage, one of the clips was missing and my friend's husband put a new one on and he tested it too. I did ask him today how he tested it and he said he used a light bulb! As I know nowt about chargers, I have no idea whether it is good or bad to test a battery charger with a light bulb. I have not measured the voltage across the terminals while the charger is operating because I dont know how to do that.

I have put the battery back on the car and have thought that maybe I should not have put the leads back on as now they will be using energy out of the battery overnight. In total over a few days the battery has been on charge 12 hours and the needle on the charger has gone to 0.

How about I stick with the old battery, dont buy a solar trickle charger and invest in a new battery charger - Argos have a charger The AA 6V/12V Smart Trickle Car Battery Charger 760/4351 £30 (I have some nectar points I can use). There is another one, Streetwize 12V Car Automatic Trickle Charger 1.5 amp 740/5392 £20. My budget is very tight at the moment until next year so I am having to be careful. Not much point buying a new battery if I am going to kill it with my use.

[Stinsy]

If your charger is working then you don’t need a new one. A faster one (such as a 20A) will work better. However you can achieve the same thing leaving the one you have connected for a few days. Charging for a few hours a day is like trying to fill a bathtub with a thimble.

A trickle charger such as the ones you suggest do a similar job to the one you have just even slower (designed to be left connected 24/7).

If your battery is kaput it won’t hold a charge.

[Mr Gus]

Please note, the decent ctek brand chargers are always reduced around black friday.
We have two, one big for big old people carriers & a regular one for everything else.

We precondition cycle (shake the plates) a couple of times per year, they have proven workhorses over the years I have no problem recommending them, we generally use quick connect clips on all cars buying a bunch when they are on offer for just a couple of quid on amazon, makes connecting hidden batteries like those in a smart car way easier.

Winter is a battery killer, if you do go solar remember Martin's winter = 1/3 the summer norm output generalisation & oversize that solar module if at all possible, or at least start with the definitive full battery by borrowing a mains charger for a few days so the solar panel.doesn't struggle. That way you have an idea as to how the solar is performing, an in car usb & voltmeter is my welcome nag to ensure a good float charge check every time , we even have one in the leaf, probably the tesla too come to think of it.

[MoSTiE]

just get one of these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264065805040 ... Swp6RedFi2

got one on my old golf vr6, it started no problem and been sat for a year.

[Stinsy]

just get one of these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264065805040 ... Swp6RedFi2

got one on my old golf vr6, it started no problem and been sat for a year.

Did you need a code for the radio?

[Mr Gus]

I agree, just the cost is expensive..
Try https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001 ... Kwg16&mp=1 I have this on the smart, ordered a few more as they are simply handy, especially with more lockdown potential around & all the restricted movement involved.

[JR]

I have decided to buy a new battery. I am going to take the trickle solar charger back to Halfords, within 28 days I can get a refund so that will be £15 and a voucher for £20 with Confused.com for Halfords, so £35 towards the battery. Halfords have 3 different batteries (HCB063, HB108 and HB057) each around £70, one is a "calcium" battery and the other 2 are "lead acid". Can you please tell me which would be best? Also what is the best way to maintain the battery please? Will my vintage battery charger be compatible with any of these new batteries? Thanks a lot in advance for any help - best wishes.

[Stinsy]

What car do you have? Those are different sized batteries! You want to buy one that will fit. I guess you'll get the Halfords employees to fit it for you?

Your vintage charger will work on the new battery if the charger isn't malfunctioning. Check the voltage across the terminals, open-circuit and while charging. anything between 13.8-14.4V is perfect.

[JR]

Thanks for your reply. I put my reg. in on the Halfords website and it shows you which batteries are suitable. (I will measure the dimensions before I buy).

Shant have it fitted, costs another £18 and I am on a tight budget.

The question is, do I buy a "calcium" battery or a "lead acid" battery - thanks.

(I havent got anything to check the voltage across the terminals of the battery charger).