I didn't top balance my packs before installing
Re: I didn't top balance my packs before installing
That looks great, and it could even pull back up duty for transfer from a V2L car battery to a pylontech stack in a pinch.
I want one (but it's low down on the waned list).
I want one (but it's low down on the waned list).
Solar PV: 6.4kW solar PV (Eurener MEPV 400W*16)
PV Inverter: Solis 6kW inverter
Batteries: 14.4kWh LiFePO4 batteries (Pylontech US5000*3)
Battery Inverter: LuxPowertek 3600 ACS*2
EV: Hyundai Kona 65kWh
WBS: 8kW Hunter Avalon 6 Multifuel burner (wood only)
PV Inverter: Solis 6kW inverter
Batteries: 14.4kWh LiFePO4 batteries (Pylontech US5000*3)
Battery Inverter: LuxPowertek 3600 ACS*2
EV: Hyundai Kona 65kWh
WBS: 8kW Hunter Avalon 6 Multifuel burner (wood only)
Re: I didn't top balance my packs before installing
The Fogstar charger is 56.8V or 3.55V for a 16S pack. 3.786V for a 15S pack.
Re: I didn't top balance my packs before installing
I looked, I couldn't find them, do you have a link?
After my non lab power supply statement I circled back to this. I couldn't find an offered smart 48V battery charger that topped out at the Ptechs 53.2V limit. They all went considerably higher,
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007 ... ry_from%3A
I think i'd rather set this up at a lower V limit knowing it will top out before the stack is full and the stack can then be finished off by the Ptechs onboard bms control, Thoughts or a better product appreciated.
I'd run the charger on a Hive plug at about 2kW, maybe down to 1.5kW. That over the 6 hr charge window should give me a full stack by 05.30hrs. Heating the RV overnight and what with HP demanding more power due to low temps (snow too) I am starting the day with a 29% soc in the stack. Not a sniff of an IO window either! Ah well, spurred me on.
15kW PV SE, VI, HM, EN
42kWh LFPO4 storage
7kW ASHP
200ltr HWT.
73kWh HI5
Deep insulation, air leak ct'd home
WBSx2
Low energy bulbs
Veg patches & fruit trees
42kWh LFPO4 storage
7kW ASHP
200ltr HWT.
73kWh HI5
Deep insulation, air leak ct'd home
WBSx2
Low energy bulbs
Veg patches & fruit trees
Re: I didn't top balance my packs before installing
I did find the exact one when he first listed it but haven't time to find it now.
quick looks gives very similar ones.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008169698720.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002848617131.html
Myself, I much prefer the Elteks as they are a real top quality item and for size and weight pack a real punch. They also can come up cheap. eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276325471008 that's 10kW of charging for £230 !!
85no 58mm solar thermal tubes, 28.5Kw PV, 3x Sunny Island 5048, 2795 Ah (135kWh) (c20) Rolls batteries 48v, 8kWh Growatt storage, 22 x US3000C Pylontech, Sofar ME3000's, Brosley wood burner and 250lt DHW
Re: I didn't top balance my packs before installing
I did see the golf cart chargers but the 54.6V put me off. I'll see if I can get a decent reading to see what top voltage being pushed is from the Goodwe hybrid. I don't need huge amounts, probably 1.5kW is enough. Spurred me on to go clear the accessible panels of snow. Got a mighty 400W incoming now.Tinbum wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2025 11:34 amI did find the exact one when he first listed it but haven't time to find it now.
quick looks gives very similar ones.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008169698720.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002848617131.html
Myself, I much prefer the Elteks as they are a real top quality item and for size and weight pack a real punch. They also can come up cheap. eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276325471008 that's 10kW of charging for £230 !!
15kW PV SE, VI, HM, EN
42kWh LFPO4 storage
7kW ASHP
200ltr HWT.
73kWh HI5
Deep insulation, air leak ct'd home
WBSx2
Low energy bulbs
Veg patches & fruit trees
42kWh LFPO4 storage
7kW ASHP
200ltr HWT.
73kWh HI5
Deep insulation, air leak ct'd home
WBSx2
Low energy bulbs
Veg patches & fruit trees
Re: I didn't top balance my packs before installing
These are rev 3 so you can permanently set a maximum voltage. Then just connect to a smart switch. It does need some soldering to set up the connectors though the guy Ian an ebay will do a complete connector. They are around £36 (nov 24) for a soldered board without controller. At this point, without a case you have bare 240V connections. The case was another 15 I think.Tinbum wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2025 11:34 amI did find the exact one when he first listed it but haven't time to find it now.
quick looks gives very similar ones.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008169698720.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002848617131.html
Myself, I much prefer the Elteks as they are a real top quality item and for size and weight pack a real punch. They also can come up cheap. eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276325471008 that's 10kW of charging for £230 !!
Re: I didn't top balance my packs before installing
I got a batch of PCB's manufactured for the Elteks and still have some available if anyone does want to go that route.Andy wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2025 12:13 pm These are rev 3 so you can permanently set a maximum voltage. Then just connect to a smart switch. It does need some soldering to set up the connectors though the guy Ian an ebay will do a complete connector. They are around £36 (nov 24) for a soldered board without controller. At this point, without a case you have bare 240V connections. The case was another 15 I think.
Eltek also do DC to DC chargers but they don't come up for sale so often. They are about 1.2kW.
85no 58mm solar thermal tubes, 28.5Kw PV, 3x Sunny Island 5048, 2795 Ah (135kWh) (c20) Rolls batteries 48v, 8kWh Growatt storage, 22 x US3000C Pylontech, Sofar ME3000's, Brosley wood burner and 250lt DHW
Re: I didn't top balance my packs before installing
Second that.
1kWatters here
They're cheap. Buy 2 and callit a warranty! ...[later that day]...*if I connect both and run parallel my warranty becomes a flying spare and I've double the powah!¿*
You oughta put a diode on the outputs of PSUs if you are parallelling them...Eltek might have done that internally in this case because they're designed to stack.
It's not like any of the Chinese jobbers will have a float that's any lower than it's constant voltage output...which is the main advantage of coupling it to an MPPT. Li-ion aren't renowned for self-discharge all the same, so a downstream load helps immensely to reduce the cell voltage after absorption.
Manual here. For the PinOut.
4.8mm Push On Female Spade Crimp Connectors fit the stock terminals. You could replace them for Anderson or someat beefier and less janky. Amphenol make the Pylontech connectors.
The best answer I know of is an Xtender. The 3.5kVA has a 50A charger. Don't be fooled by it being called 48V. It does everything between 38V-68V
I don't buy non-programmable chargers.
I charge LFP to 3.375 p/c.
With periodic cycles to 3.55V p/c to reverse the memory effect. On some chargers that's not an option, on others you can use the EQ function.
Re: I didn't top balance my packs before installing
I had a look at different chargers and found this one. As my pack limit is 53.2V (3.54V cell) and I read 51.6V and 3.4V cell voltage at 96%. I thought why not drop down to a defined lower rated ancillary charger pack?
I found this one that says 12S and 50.4V although it does say Lithium on the blurb. At 50.4V max that would assist to lift my pack to around 90% soc
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002848617131.html
That's a 1500W charger running for 6 hours giving me a 9kWh lift into the pack and then shutting off early while the Goodwe finished the job.
It doesn't matter that its advertised as Lithium charger, does it? The unit won't be involved in any float shenanigans as it will be off at the top of the charge? Any thoughts or glaring holes in my logic please point them out before I press buy.
P.S Saladhin, impressive stuff!
I found this one that says 12S and 50.4V although it does say Lithium on the blurb. At 50.4V max that would assist to lift my pack to around 90% soc
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002848617131.html
That's a 1500W charger running for 6 hours giving me a 9kWh lift into the pack and then shutting off early while the Goodwe finished the job.
It doesn't matter that its advertised as Lithium charger, does it? The unit won't be involved in any float shenanigans as it will be off at the top of the charge? Any thoughts or glaring holes in my logic please point them out before I press buy.
P.S Saladhin, impressive stuff!
15kW PV SE, VI, HM, EN
42kWh LFPO4 storage
7kW ASHP
200ltr HWT.
73kWh HI5
Deep insulation, air leak ct'd home
WBSx2
Low energy bulbs
Veg patches & fruit trees
42kWh LFPO4 storage
7kW ASHP
200ltr HWT.
73kWh HI5
Deep insulation, air leak ct'd home
WBSx2
Low energy bulbs
Veg patches & fruit trees
Re: I didn't top balance my packs before installing
If it's for a dwelling space I try to avoid fans on my lekytronics.
You can fully charge a LFP with 3.4V p/c if you use a long enough time and low enough tail current. Why would you want to though? If you charge 10% less SOC you get 4X more longevity/lifetime capacity. Just derate them accordingly.
Then there's the issue of high current charging in low temperatures. You need to progressively ramp down at 15°C cell temperature.
This is because chemistry is analogue not digital. So most on the market chargers that do 100% duty at 1°C (often measured internally in the device so it's the heat producing charger temperature they reference not the battery) and 0% duty at 0°C are battery breaking due to the phenomenon of lithium plating. If this is a realistic use case then you shoulda got lead acid.
It's not really an issue on a liveaboard. You can scavenge operational heat from the cells by insulating them in PIR. I heat my house battery with my inverters and a PIR jacket. They don't drop below 10°C in 0°C ambient.
For bike batteries I charge them after I use them where the latent operational heat keeps them toasty enough. MorningStar ProStar and GenStar are the only chargers I know of with temperature proportional current reduction but their temp sensors are not the most accurate so I'd give them 3°C overhead on the settings to compensate and err on the side of caution.
Some people build battery heaters.
Lead acid is more efficient if that's the case.
You can fully charge a LFP with 3.4V p/c if you use a long enough time and low enough tail current. Why would you want to though? If you charge 10% less SOC you get 4X more longevity/lifetime capacity. Just derate them accordingly.
Then there's the issue of high current charging in low temperatures. You need to progressively ramp down at 15°C cell temperature.
This is because chemistry is analogue not digital. So most on the market chargers that do 100% duty at 1°C (often measured internally in the device so it's the heat producing charger temperature they reference not the battery) and 0% duty at 0°C are battery breaking due to the phenomenon of lithium plating. If this is a realistic use case then you shoulda got lead acid.
It's not really an issue on a liveaboard. You can scavenge operational heat from the cells by insulating them in PIR. I heat my house battery with my inverters and a PIR jacket. They don't drop below 10°C in 0°C ambient.
For bike batteries I charge them after I use them where the latent operational heat keeps them toasty enough. MorningStar ProStar and GenStar are the only chargers I know of with temperature proportional current reduction but their temp sensors are not the most accurate so I'd give them 3°C overhead on the settings to compensate and err on the side of caution.
Some people build battery heaters.
Lead acid is more efficient if that's the case.