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Have bought 24Volt D.C. Kettle to work off the battery system.
It DOES NOT SAY ON THE BOX IT TAKES 20 MINUETS TO BOIL THE WATER.

It is 300W. Because it takes a lot longer at least the radiant heat helps heating
the room while it is boiling. In the summer i will have to make a thermal insulation
jacket to keep the heat inside and it should boil Quicker.

Like the selling point - Boil Dry Protection. Take about a day wouldn't it

Can’t work out the cats thoughts on it, though.

Better off (typically) with a normal kettle & a decent capacity flask / flasks, / normal kettle small qty as needed.
Unless its a use excess summer PV or similar, & even then habits to flick a "fast boil" die hard.

Sorry.

They seem to have worked out the Maths completely.
It will probably get used the most in the Winter.
In the Summer more Cold drinks will be consumed.
Thats why the Supply Cable diameter is so small.
So that the heat radiated from the cable will Heat the room.
It does make a good hand warmer if you wrap the cable
round it. The cable is only long enough to warm one
hand at a time.

ALAN/ALAN D wrote: ↑Sun Feb 20, 2022 3:00 pm Have bought 24Volt D.C. Kettle to work off the battery system.
It DOES NOT SAY ON THE BOX IT TAKES 20 MINUETS TO BOIL THE WATER.

. In the summer i will have to make a thermal insulation
jacket to keep the heat inside and it should boil Quicker.

I've got an insulated electric kettle and reckon it must save quite a bit of electricity. Don't know why they are not more common.

Wash it well if you insist on using it, some really questionable materials used these days, I remember when daughter was very young, we still needed a travel kettle, even a decent brand "morphy richards" needed so much flushing compared to a regular kettle.

It remains in the cupboard, we have a lot of Sigg flasks & a festival snaffled 1.8 litre thermos, boil & keep hot.

I've got a standard jug kettle, probably 2kw, that i 'rescued' when my sister was throwing it away - it seeps water if left more than 1/2 full.

The thing i like about it is that there's very little thermal mass in the element so it stops boiling within 2 seconds of turning off - unlike a lot of modern kettles that seem to keep going for 1/2 a minute or so after the power is turned off. So if you put a mugful of water into it it's only heating a mugful of water and very little metal, so it boils very quick and once emptied the only wast heat is that small thermal mass of the element & the jug that's still warm.

Ditto, I bought a cheap "ok" kettle that is also responsive (it was a stainless steel unit as a return for around a fiver with a crumpled box)
the turn off time is quicker & the thing is way quieter (likely as minimal plastic)

Mr Gus wrote: ↑Sun Feb 20, 2022 4:27 pm Wash it well if you insist on using it, some really questionable materials used these days, I remember when daughter was very young, we still needed a travel kettle, even a decent brand "morphy richards" needed so much flushing compared to a regular kettle.

It remains in the cupboard, we have a lot of Sigg flasks & a festival snaffled 1.8 litre thermos, boil & keep hot.

It is all stainless steel on the inside.

Why would you need to flush a kettle of any sort? Is it something to do with using water that leaves scale?

CrofterMannie wrote: ↑Sun Feb 20, 2022 6:27 pm

Mr Gus wrote: ↑Sun Feb 20, 2022 4:27 pm Wash it well if you insist on using it, some really questionable materials used these days, I remember when daughter was very young, we still needed a travel kettle, even a decent brand "morphy richards" needed so much flushing compared to a regular kettle.

It remains in the cupboard, we have a lot of Sigg flasks & a festival snaffled 1.8 litre thermos, boil & keep hot.

It is all stainless steel on the inside.

Why would you need to flush a kettle of any sort? Is it something to do with using water that leaves scale?

If it's all-plastic you need to get rid of what leaches out of it in the first few boilings.
I too am suspicious of plastics: maybe 20 years ago in the lab I took a new coil of plastic tubing out of a cupboard, to find it looked as though it was full of condensation. I asked my (ex-plastics research) colleague about it and he said "plasticisers for PVC was a dark art. You don't know what they tried," and by implication you don't know whether it worked until it's too late! In that case I think the plasticiser had migrated out... I believe even PCBs were used at one time too!
So when I see PVC tubing offered for syphoning home-made wine (like today's potential purchase) I pass on until I cam find polythene tubing...
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