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Inspired by Nowtys 'more renewable shenanigans' thread a while back I have now completed my second split A2A system install.
Pictures tell a thousand words and couldnt hope to match the original write up in anycase, so just a brief description and a few pictures from me.

Bought a 3.5kw unit, they come with 4m of pipework, but i needed to run the refrigerant lines through an adjacent room so needed a 2m long extension, making a total piperun of 6m. Manufacturer says unit is precharged to cope with that so happy days. Cost of unit + additional pipe kit was £593.98. Refrigerant pipework is run at fairly high level around the room and will be boxed in to create high level book shelf (partly done at present so no piccies yet).

Dont like the look of pipework/cables down the outside wall of the house, so i sourced a 4x4" piece of electrical trunking for £30. Installed that to run from soffit board to ground level, as my power cable is running via the loft (im in a bungalow so thats easier to route) and enters through sofit board. Its BIG trunking but gives the advantage that when your pipes/cables/drain exit the core drilled hole through the cavity wall, you have more 'space' to bend the pipes without damaging them when making the required 90' bend. Also, as measuring the pipe distance exactly is a bit 'wooly' it gives you the ability to 'lose' any extra pipe by forming gentle waves within the trunking to lose a few inches if required. Should see that on one of the photos as the pipe descends, i just think it looks some much tidier if you see nothing when its finished. The whole external trunking was filled with exp foam afterwards to retain heat/protect etc.

My inverter is in my garage, and has an 'excess solar' socket wired into it that acts as a type of Marlec HW diverter, so adj my inverter i have a double socket fed from this facility, as well as a normal mains powered one fed from its own mcb right adjacent.

So my A2A heat pump isnt hard wired into the mains at any point. Its run off its own 2.5mm cable (effectively used as an extension lead), through the soffit, into the loft and along to the other end of the roofspace in continuous conduit (bright red to distinguish it from anything mains connected in the usual manner). This bright red conduit then ends up by the excess solar socket/mains socket and can be plugged into either. Sounds a bit weird, but gives me the ability to then use it from either power source. Mains or the inverter controlled battery SOC or timer settings - and as the unit isnt 'wired into' my house, id consider it an 'appliance' so no Part P required either.

Need to change the drainage pipe slightly, in that the top pipe (when operating in AC mode) condense needs teeing into the pipe below running (from the heat pump when heating) to my drain - thought id got a OF tee kicking about, but couldnt find it so will have to tee that in later. Nice little 5 mins job for the future. Used 21mm OF for these pipe runs, as we dont get ice etc down these parts, but in colder climes would look at upsizing to 32mm. Lost count of the amount of frozen boiler condense pipes ive had to sort in the past.

Anyway, thats about it. All runs fine, even though a bit closer to the ceiling than the instructions suggest. Few crappy pictures in no particular order, and thanks again to those that inspired. I'll let mrsResy tidy the door frame up - paintings a pink job!

That's a tidy job, well done.

Like the 4inch trunking for loosing the extra length and general tidiness.

Excellent neat job.

Cheers all for the comments, quite enjoyed that little project.

A few pics of the 'book shelf' hiding the pipework in the back office.

What i did was fix a 150mm back board to the wall (level) with hammer in wall anchors, creating a means of afixing the pipes and cables securely. They must all run 'downhill' for the system to work (unless fitting a trap), so essential to fit properly and prevent any sagging when installing horizontally, hence the need for a 'tall' back board to provide adequate continuous fall.
The condense drain pipe from the inside unit is a short 17mm thin flexible pipe, so i converted that into glued OF pipework for rigidity and clipped that to the board. Then screwed on the front wooden vertical board to form a channel, where the two refrigerent lines were fixed, as well as the 5 core communication cable from each unit.
The main power wire would normally follow the same route but in this case mine run through the loft and sofit board. Expanding foam filled the wooden channel, after checking for leaks/operation, then bunged a couple of upvc capping boards on the top and bottom of the boxing to hide the wooden channel joints and cut down the future painting and chips from chucking books and stuff up there. The idea is the visible wooden section between the capping will be painted the same colour as the wall to break up the size of it all visually.

Anyway, my parts all done, over to MrsResy for the decorating. I hate painting with a passion.

Excellent job - where did you purchase the A2A mate - my kitchen electrical underfloor needs replacing ( too bloody expensive to run ) - maybe one of these could be an option

Another great solution to hiding pipework..

shirehorse99 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 21, 2024 8:54 am Excellent job - where did you purchase the A2A mate - my kitchen electrical underfloor needs replacing ( too bloody expensive to run ) - maybe one of these could be an option

Cheers AGT

Shire
Assume its within the rules to say that i bought mine through Www.cooleasy.co.uk tel 08004580101? was quite a simple smooth process with good service and delivery was next day. My 3.5kw unit cost £521.99 & 2m pipe extension cost £71.99 on top.
Other suppliers are availible and these folks are nothing to do with me.

Would suggest you read Nowtys write up around these in his 'more renewables at Nowty towers' thread to see all whats required, id not have done either of mine without his (and others on here) willingness to be guinea pigs and share their resultant knowledge/experience so kindly.
For example you will need a vacuum pump (Ebay etc £80-100), core drills are helpful and tidyier but could be avoided etc.

Also there are rules around fitting these yourselves in UK houses - you need to have an FGAS certificate, and no company will supply one unless you have this or are using an approved installer. Unless, as suggested on their own website, you are 'exporting' it elsewhere and can confirm as such , another reason why mine isnt a 'fixed appliance' and runs off a plug.
Company happy to deliver to normal UK address if your 'exporting' however as they dont ship overseas directly.

Hope that helps, but seriously give that thread a read through.

Thanks Resy - good info to know - I’ve got a good mate who is FGas registered

How do you it integrated into your home system - do you use Home Assistant?

shirehorse99 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 21, 2024 1:54 pm Thanks Resy - good info to know - I’ve got a good mate who is FGas registered

How do you it integrated into your home system - do you use Home Assistant?

Ideal on the Fgas'd pal front there buddy, a shame you cant 'pimp' him out for certificates for a few of us for beers lol.
That should make the positioning/pipe lengths easier to work around then as he'll likely be upto making the flared joints and gas capacity alterations etc.

As for controls, im a Simple bloke im afraid, some would confirm 'very' no doubt! i just use the remote control they come with.
They are WiFi'able so i assume there is an app or something to also control them but i am a bit dinosaur like and prefer the 'no thinking required' remote control approach personally, so havent looked at that.