Tyre screwed?

[Stinsy]

A lot of the EVs have body shapes designed for low air resistance. Makes a HUGE difference on the question of whether rolling resistance important. And for THAT, the biggest factor is tire pressure.

I used to be very conscious of that late 60's/early 70's driving a Saab. Since Saab an aircraft company, they had "wind tunnel" expertise in house.Coasting on a grade where my mom's card had a terminal velocity of 35 mph, my brother's Saab would do 55 mph (and of course you were always coasting those, since had freewheel).

Remember the old Saabs where you had to keep your foot on the throttle when moving or the engine would lose lubrication? That meant pressing both pedals on long descents!

[pudding]

I had this one repaired for free by Volvo on my Polestar. They said it was marginal but would give it a go if i wanted. I said hell yeah, and it's been fine for 7 months now.

[Stinsy]

I had this one repaired for free by Volvo on my Polestar. They said it was marginal but would give it a go if i wanted. I said hell yeah, and it's been fine for 7 months now.

I’m not sure I’d be happy with “marginal” in this case! Sure you might get away with it, but what happens when you have a sudden failure of the repair on the motorway? Best case it is really inconvenient!

Just buy a new tyre. Not that expensive considering.

[pudding]

Well if it didn't work it'd just slowly leak as it possibly wouldn't have been fully sealed due to being close to where the curved shoulder of the tyre starts. No reason it'd be a catastrophic blowout or anything dramatic is there.

They pressure tested it for an hour before I drove away and it was fine, and has been for months now. If I had a sudden failure on the motorway, squirt in the expanding foam into the tyre that comes with the car as the tyre is ruined anyway, and drive off. It was about £250 for a new tyre, which were only 2 months old at this point, so I'd consider that pretty expensive and was happy to give the repair a try. Each to their own of course.

[dan_b]

Just looked these tyres up they’re £290 each.
Will take it to the local fitters this morning and see what they say. If it needs replacing I’ll probably do both - don’t like having dramatically different tyre ages/tread depths on the same axle. Could be an expensive day

[chris_n]

The rules say that a puncture must be in the central 3/4 of the tread to be repairable.

[AE-NMidlands]

Just looked these tyres up they’re £290 each.
Will take it to the local fitters this morning and see what they say. If it needs replacing I’ll probably do both - don’t like having dramatically different tyre ages/tread depths on the same axle. Could be an expensive day

Or get another wheel with the new tyre and then keep the repaired one as a spare?

[Stinsy]

Well if it didn't work it'd just slowly leak as it possibly wouldn't have been fully sealed due to being close to where the curved shoulder of the tyre starts. No reason it'd be a catastrophic blowout or anything dramatic is there.

They pressure tested it for an hour before I drove away and it was fine, and has been for months now. If I had a sudden failure on the motorway, squirt in the expanding foam into the tyre that comes with the car as the tyre is ruined anyway, and drive off. It was about £250 for a new tyre, which were only 2 months old at this point, so I'd consider that pretty expensive and was happy to give the repair a try. Each to their own of course.

Repaired tyres often fail catastrophically. Particularly if the repair is too close to the shoulder.

[Fintray]

I know your pain!

[dan_b]

Two new tyres fitted at the rear.
Decided to go for the Hankook option. Slightly cheaper and claim to have lower rolling resistance.

Fronts have a bit of life left in them so kept the Pirelli’s on for now.