Building an EV more efficient than walking

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Saladin
Posts: 107
Joined: Sun Jul 07, 2024 5:27 pm

Re: Building an EV more efficient than walking

#71

Post by Saladin »

Brake upgrades...the second most important part after tyres and oft ignored in the world of DIY conversions.

I like a 203mm rotor. It's torque-y and the right side of too big to draw too much attention or become an incidental impact liability. 220mms can be overpowered for a light rider on a light bike and you can get wheel-locking issues.

The original owner and converter didn't clamp the motor in place... :shock:
I went about rectifying that and realised the next problem.

The bike has an oversize bottom bracket tube, that needed to be slieved to accept the motor spindle. Original owner did that with pressed roller bearings.

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Ok so the Bafang locknut couldn't bite the frame because of the larger BB ID it was pressed into the cage of the roller bearing. This meant if I do clamp the motor it would break loose smashing into the brake line on the downtube, and pincing the hose to disable the rear brake... :?

The fix the owner used was to not lock the motor and when you depowered it it would fall back down on the BB and the brakes would start working again. So simple! Fantastic!

This is what the brake hose looked like after 500km of that craic...

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I'm impressed how robust they are.

This is a torque arm required situation.

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Custom fabrication, using the original Bafang locknut, with an inner tube frame protecting, damper slieve.

See how that works?

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User avatar
Saladin
Posts: 107
Joined: Sun Jul 07, 2024 5:27 pm

Re: Building an EV more efficient than walking

#72

Post by Saladin »

The original brake pads were expired, the dot 4 was passed it's best before, I stripped the refill port screwhead trying to open it and I had a very sorry looking rear brake hose. ...What's that? Quad piston Shimano's on sale?

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Boom!

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Change the calliper spacers, mount the callipers, change the rotors, run the lines, mount the levers, bleed the system. Simples.

203mm front and 180mm rear. I rather not undersize the rear rotor but a 203mm won't clear the chainstay.
A lottov bike builders put smaller rotors on the rear because it's ony 30% of your stopping power... :roll: ...I don't understand how it should warrant a lower spec by that logic...besides I use the rear for steering more often than stopping.

For all my other bikes I just upgraded the rotors and pads and renewed the hydraulic fluid. My hardtail eMTB has more stopping power due to it's lighter weight & sintered pads despite only having dual piston tektros.

Fun bike for a 6th bike. :oops:
If I could only have one I'd stick to the hardtail. It's more efficient, discrete, better at everything above 0°C, tyres cost two thirds less and there's more options & the big one: suspension; it's got better road holding.

I might go tubeless on the fat tyres with a magic puncture fixing potion inside the tyres if the new tyres are getting penetrated. I can't help but notice the best tyres I could get affordly have a lower puncture protection rating than my hardtail and aboot 3 times the contact patch...
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