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I'm trying to save some money by doing the installation of the charger myself and just calling an electrician to connect it. Not sure it will work because the quotes I'm getting so far are much higher than the one I've got from Octopus, even though they charge more for the charger itself.

Anyway, what's a gold standard in terms of how ev chargers are connected? Today I learnt that I need isolator switch next to my meter. Given Octopus will install smart meter in 2 weeks time I called them to install that too and hopefully they have enough time to do it.
- Do I need any specific RCD (type A?) when I'm connecting Ohme charger?
- Does it make a difference if I have the isolator switch or not?
- Is there anything I should think about if in a very near future I'm also getting inverter and batteries to use octopus go/inelligent?

Is this the unit?

https://www.evcexperts.co.uk/wp-content ... manual.pdf

AGT wrote: ↑Tue Sep 20, 2022 6:28 pm Is this the unit?

https://www.evcexperts.co.uk/wp-content ... manual.pdf

Yup, I've read it but I struggle to find what they call "a competent person". Perhaps going with Octopus installation is the way to go.
What does it mean that it has RCD A built in? Does it mean I don't need another one in consumer unit?

My advice would be to have an outside company fit it. That includes Octopus if the price stack up well. High power, warranty. Makes sense.
Welcome to the forum.

Been there, had a similar experience. Bottom line is that it requires Part P approval, so if you DIY it then you need to fork out around £450 to get it signed off by building control. Failure to do this can leave you open to a prison sentence, apparently.

Annoying, but you can save cash by doing the donkey work. I ran the cable in for ours, after taking with a local electrician. I also did the paperwork with the DNO (only needed notification in our case). This was before the law changed that requires all charge points to be smart and controllable by the government, though. Saved a bit of cash by doing what was really the labouring part of the job, but I did agree this up front with the electrician that fitted it and signed it off.

Think you need a sparky mate!
The installation manual tells you pretty much everything.
Along with your own knowledge of your consumer unit

Ohme also do a commando socket (32A) one, so you just need your Spark to fit an external commando socket.
https://www.ohme-ev.com/ohme-ev-chargers

And there are other dumb commando socket based ones available too if you don't want to fit one compliant to the Electric Vehicles (Smart Charge Points) Regulations 2021.

Nowty Towers second EV charger is Commando based.

A bit of misunderstanding. I'm not going to do DIY as I'm aware I need a proper electrician to sign it off. Just wanted to save some time to a local electrician and get everything sorted before his arrival. Until today morning I wasn't even aware I needed isolator switch, hence my questions.

Btw. Why is my 3-pin-plug car charger burning a socket? I'm using extension lead to get to socket with 13A rating, but it's quite long (5-10m).

ducabi wrote: ↑Tue Sep 20, 2022 8:44 pm A bit of misunderstanding. I'm not going to do DIY as I'm aware I need a proper electrician to sign it off. Just wanted to save some time to a local electrician and get everything sorted before his arrival. Until today morning I wasn't even aware I needed isolator switch, hence my questions.

Btw. Why is my 3-pin-plug car charger burning a socket? I'm using extension lead to get to socket with 13A rating, but it's quite long (5-10m).

Most likely, old or loose wiring in the socket or poor quality socket, I always fit quality brands like MK.

nowty wrote: ↑Tue Sep 20, 2022 8:50 pm Most likely, old or loose wiring in the socket or poor quality socket, I always fit quality brands like MK.

Would it make the 3-pin-plug hot too?