Downlighter Thermo Hoods - Install.

[Adokforme]

Hi All, when purchasing our bungalow we inherited Downlights in the kitchen and bathroom, 6 in each. They protrude into the loft surrounded by insulation with an air gap around them. I've since purchased Thermo Hoods to cover them with before adding another layer of insulation over the top.
On the instructions it depicts a vapour barrier between ceiling board and insulation, which doesn't currently exist, and then adding sealant upon the hoods prior to sitting down upon it!
I'm trying to fathom how essential the vapour barrier is and how far it should extend away from the light fittings. In any case it will be limited on either side by joists so unable to extend further there other than running up the sides.
I guess this is to prevent any condensation from forming on the outside of the hoods and running down onto the ceiling plasterboard!

I just wondered if anyone has had previous experience of the above and would be kind enough to pass on any recommendations they may have please?

[John_S]

To be honest, I would replace the down lights with fire rated downlights approved for covering for covering with insulation. E.g.

https://www.downlights.co.uk/faq-fire-r ... ghts-.html

[Thebeeman]

To be honest, I would replace the down lights with fire rated downlights approved for covering for covering with insulation. E.g.

https://www.downlights.co.uk/faq-fire-r ... ghts-.html

Plus new ones would/could be LED. The power saved against an 'old' reflector lamp would probably cover the extra expense fairly quickly especially in a kitchen.
From my experience an insulated down-lighter reflector bulb blows very regularly.

[AGT]

https://www.downlightsdirect.co.uk/cct- ... rofit.html

Things like this that have a larger diameter will save remedial work

[John_S]

I took it for granted that any new light would be LED.

It is your choice whether you go for lights which take GU10 lamps or complete units with a built in LED lamp. They often have a higher quality driver that lasts longer than GU10 lamps, especially cheap ones,

Main advantage is that you get a fit for purpose light instead of A,s light, B’s firehood and C’s insulation spacer. No one will take responsibility if they fail as they will blame the other components. Also you don’t have to go into the attic to fit anything.

PS. Just re-read your original post. You don’t specifically state that your lights are fire-rated which they should be.

[AGT]

Fire rated lights are only required if you are affecting the fire compartment/compartmentalisation of the property.

If it’s a single property, doesn’t matter, if it’s flats it does.

However they are so cheap I would fit fire rated all the time.

[Adokforme]

Thanks guys. Much appreciated, looks like I have some more investigating to do, starting by checking out the spec installed currently!

[Adokforme]

A visit in the loft this morning revealed our down lights to be NVC 7W LED's and fire rated at that. So who's a lucky boy then.
Checking out best practice guide 5 then in a bungalow it would appear that no fire resistance is required, however I will be fitting the Thermo hoods and placing the insulation over the top.
The units appear to have stood the test of time, us having been here seven years, so perhaps fortunate that LED units were installed.
Thanks for all the links and info you've posted which have been most helpful and is much appreciated.