heat loss calculations

Air source, ground source and associated systems for heating homes
spread-tee
Posts: 635
Joined: Mon May 31, 2021 7:16 pm
Location: ville of spiky things

Re: heat loss calculations

#41

Post by spread-tee »

Those EWI sections are just the ticket for extending the cills, for the eaves if it were mine, I would first decide how much wider the soffit should be. 1 extra plain tile 265mm long will extend the soffit by about 75mm and ect. I would then take off the first three or four couses of tiles noting the first is a short version, then make up some extensions to the rafters, 75cm long or so, you can use a rafter end as a template and you will probably need a birds mouth over the sole plate that the roof rests on and maybe another to clear the outer skin of brickwork. There maybe a sprocket nailed on top of the rafter ends, these need to be repositioned on your new extensions, they reduce the pitch for the last few courses to slow the water and also give you a slightly wider facia Then fit your new soffit and facia boards, note the facia may stick up slightly above the top plane of the rafter/sprocket and acts as the last batten.

Fix a gutter bracket to the facia, this gives you a position for the short eaves tile to end so that rainwater will run into the gutter nicely, then fix the first batten, fix the second batten so that the second full lenghth tile ends flush with the bottom of the short eaves tile. Then you need to fill the gap between the first two battens and the last one you left in place, its a matter of looking at how many tiles you need to keep the overlap similar to the existing. Also when fixing the first short eaves tile consider how many courses you will be putting back on and check the bond, that is you must have the join between two tile edges somewhere near the centre of the tile above to keep it all water proof.

It may sound more complicated than it really is, but when you get up on the roof it will become clear, all you need to do is cut some bits of 4 by 2 treated timber screw them to the side of the rafters, nail some batten down over a bit of breather membrane and whack a couple of hundred tiles up.

Verges are a little more complicated but I am off out on the bike now :D so maybe later.

Bobs your aunty

Desp
Blah blah blah
AE-NMidlands
Posts: 2073
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2021 6:10 pm

Re: heat loss calculations

#42

Post by AE-NMidlands »

spread-tee wrote: Tue Nov 26, 2024 12:12 pm Those EWI sections are just the ticket for extending the cills, for the eaves if it were mine, I would first decide how much wider the soffit should be. 1 extra plain tile 265mm long will extend the soffit by about 75mm and ect. I would then take off the first three or four couses of tiles noting the first is a short version, then make up some extensions to the rafters, 75cm long or so, you can use a rafter end as a template and you will probably need a birds mouth over the sole plate that the roof rests on and maybe another to clear the outer skin of brickwork. There maybe a sprocket nailed on top of the rafter ends, these need to be repositioned on your new extensions, they reduce the pitch for the last few courses to slow the water and also give you a slightly wider facia Then fit your new soffit and facia boards, note the facia may stick up slightly above the top plane of the rafter/sprocket and acts as the last batten.

Fix a gutter bracket to the facia, this gives you a position for the short eaves tile to end so that rainwater will run into the gutter nicely, then fix the first batten, fix the second batten so that the second full lenghth tile ends flush with the bottom of the short eaves tile. Then you need to fill the gap between the first two battens and the last one you left in place, its a matter of looking at how many tiles you need to keep the overlap similar to the existing. Also when fixing the first short eaves tile consider how many courses you will be putting back on and check the bond, that is you must have the join between two tile edges somewhere near the centre of the tile above to keep it all water proof.

It may sound more complicated than it really is, but when you get up on the roof it will become clear, all you need to do is cut some bits of 4 by 2 treated timber screw them to the side of the rafters, nail some batten down over a bit of breather membrane and whack a couple of hundred tiles up.

Verges are a little more complicated but I am off out on the bike now :D so maybe later.

Bobs your aunty

Desp
Thanks for the various suggestions...
I have been digging deeper and thinking it over again... I have found some aluminium extruded sections online but they are quite small and only intended for conservatories etc. Also the other metal seems to be for fascias and soffits rather than the structure that they are going to screen.

Our trouble is that we have no eaves at all, the fascia board is simply upside-down skirting board nailed to the wallplate and the wall. All the guidance shows rafters being extended - but we have none to extend as they just sit on the wallplate. There is nothing vertical to fix to other than the wall!
https://cms.trustmark.org.uk/media/yo2e ... 13149407_2 shows
Image
and the robustness of the "Ladder extension" in that drawing reassures me that I'm not going too far over the top.
It takes a heavy ladder to reach up to our gutter and roof, and it will have to withstand the wind too, so I might stick with plan A!
A
2.0 kW/4.62 MWh pa in Ripples, 4.5 kWp W-facing pv, 9.5 kWh batt
30 solar thermal tubes, 2MWh pa in Stockport, plus Congleton and Kinlochbervie Hydros,
Most travel by bike, walking or bus/train. Veg, fruit - and Bees!
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