Balcony solar PV

[openspaceman]

The way prices are atm if I was in UK I would be fitting a couple of vertical panels on the South elevation of my house and building a canopy above the West facing kitchen window / door with another couple. As I'm not there and probably won't be there long enough to do the work in the foreseeable future my daughter will have to do without.

At least she must benefit from what is already installed.

I plan to fit 4 400W panels to the tiled roofs of the one storey "porches" but they also point WSW as the original fit panels, far from ideal and I want to remain compliant even if I have no approval. This is why I am looking at the Hoymiles 1600.

My thinking is if I go for the 5kW hybrid in an ESS arrangement with the export limit set to 5.68kW that I have approval for (fitted by a qualified electrician) then what additional AC generated will never get past the hybrid if the battery is full.

I need to understand how my solarmax fit inverter and a hoymile 1600 will deal with the hybrid inverter saying no more.

BTW my additional 1800W facing SE commissioned in January as a battery charger with inevitable curtailment has produced 930kWh so unlikely to get the 1MWh by year's end.

.

I've just ordered my Hoymiles 1600 from Germany via Ebay - have to see how long it takes to wade through the customs process.

In terms of Hoymiles and current inverter playing together, I currently have a 3.68kW Sunsynk inverter system, with CT coil and DNO agreement to export up to 3.68kW.
My assumption is that the Hoymiles, which has no CT coil, will keep producing regardless - so say the house is using 600W, and the Hoymiles is at full power - it will export 1kW to the grid.
The Sunsynk will read the CT coil as exporting 1kW, so it will allow an extra 2.68kW to be exported to reach the 3.68Kw limit, and anything above that will either go to the battery or be lost, as it can only control the export using the reading from the CT coil.

Looking forward to seeing your experiences.

So do you expect the Hoymiles just to cut the PV production once the CT on the Sunsynk decides no more export? Will it simply try and increase voltage until it reaches the programmed upper limit and then stop generation with the PV panels switched open circuit?

I am looking at this set up

https://www.victronenergy.com/live/_med ... lus-ii.png

I want it to work if the grid is lost

Assuming the top inverter is my 4kW fit system and adjacent to it is my current ac coupled inverter (which may have conflicts with the Victron) connected to the circuit marked "Loads",

The bottom PV array and battery charger being my current 1800W system


Then the planned Hoymiles 1600 would be the middle one on the circuit marked "essential loads"

My question is if the grid is lost does that mean the circuit with "Loads" is then cut off so the FIT system will not generate?

I want to keep the benefit of sharing the load between my 3kW ac coupled battery and inverter with both the FIT 4kW inverter and any additions otherwise if everything has to go through one inverter it needs to be excessively large to service all the loads.

I think I am after something like what a moored boat would be like using shore power but still working once cruising.

[richbee]

At least she must benefit from what is already installed.

I plan to fit 4 400W panels to the tiled roofs of the one storey "porches" but they also point WSW as the original fit panels, far from ideal and I want to remain compliant even if I have no approval. This is why I am looking at the Hoymiles 1600.

My thinking is if I go for the 5kW hybrid in an ESS arrangement with the export limit set to 5.68kW that I have approval for (fitted by a qualified electrician) then what additional AC generated will never get past the hybrid if the battery is full.

I need to understand how my solarmax fit inverter and a hoymile 1600 will deal with the hybrid inverter saying no more.

BTW my additional 1800W facing SE commissioned in January as a battery charger with inevitable curtailment has produced 930kWh so unlikely to get the 1MWh by year's end.

.

I've just ordered my Hoymiles 1600 from Germany via Ebay - have to see how long it takes to wade through the customs process.

In terms of Hoymiles and current inverter playing together, I currently have a 3.68kW Sunsynk inverter system, with CT coil and DNO agreement to export up to 3.68kW.
My assumption is that the Hoymiles, which has no CT coil, will keep producing regardless - so say the house is using 600W, and the Hoymiles is at full power - it will export 1kW to the grid.
The Sunsynk will read the CT coil as exporting 1kW, so it will allow an extra 2.68kW to be exported to reach the 3.68Kw limit, and anything above that will either go to the battery or be lost, as it can only control the export using the reading from the CT coil.

Looking forward to seeing your experiences.

So do you expect the Hoymiles just to cut the PV production once the CT on the Sunsynk decides no more export? Will it simply try and increase voltage until it reaches the programmed upper limit and then stop generation with the PV panels switched open circuit?

I am looking at this set up

https://www.victronenergy.com/live/_med ... lus-ii.png

I want it to work if the grid is lost

Assuming the top inverter is my 4kW fit system and adjacent to it is my current ac coupled inverter (which may have conflicts with the Victron) connected to the circuit marked "Loads",

The bottom PV array and battery charger being my current 1800W system


Then the planned Hoymiles 1600 would be the middle one on the circuit marked "essential loads"

My question is if the grid is lost does that mean the circuit with "Loads" is then cut off so the FIT system will not generate?

I want to keep the benefit of sharing the load between my 3kW ac coupled battery and inverter with both the FIT 4kW inverter and any additions otherwise if everything has to go through one inverter it needs to be excessively large to service all the loads.

I think I am after something like what a moored boat would be like using shore power but still working once cruising.

Must admit I'm a bit hazy on these - but my understanding is that most if not all of the240V inverters will stop producing automatically if the grid goes down as a safety precaution - certainly the Hoymiles and my Sunsynk will by default - although the Sunsynk can have essential loads set up to run if the power goes down, using a separate MCB in the consumer unit.
I don't know what the Victron unit is intended to do - maybe the same thing?

[openspaceman]

Must admit I'm a bit hazy on these - but my understanding is that most if not all of the240V inverters will stop producing automatically if the grid goes down as a safety precaution - certainly the Hoymiles and my Sunsynk will by default - although the Sunsynk can have essential loads set up to run if the power goes down, using a separate MCB in the consumer unit.
I don't know what the Victron unit is intended to do - maybe the same thing?

Yes much the same, the UPS function operates within 20milliseconds according to the blurb.

My difficulty in understanding this is about how it would all integrate when off grid.

I cannot come to terms with how the other inverters would "push" the multiplus as they keep up solar PV production but the battery and loads are satisfied. I thought they tried to increase frequency AND/OR voltage which is fine when they are pushing an almost infinite load like the grid but pushing another inverter???

It's all a bit academic until I get nearer to being able to dump utility standing charges, even then it isn't worthwhile unless I stay off for a few years as re-connection charges are the same order of magnitude as the annual standing charge cost, but I would like to be in a position to do it.

[richbee]

Trying to work out the best (cost effective) way to mount the panels to my shed roof.
City Plumbing have various rails, foot mounts, clamps etc - but I hadn't realised how expensive they are - currently will come to nearly £200 to mount 4 x 430W panels - which is a lot as the panels will only be £330!
I know Joeboy used wooden rails, but not sure if that will be a good long term solution, and unistrut seems at least as expensive as the aluminium rails for new stuff - maybe ebay or FB marketplace might have 2nd hand stuff?

[Joeboy]

Trying to work out the best (cost effective) way to mount the panels to my shed roof.
City Plumbing have various rails, foot mounts, clamps etc - but I hadn't realised how expensive they are - currently will come to nearly £200 to mount 4 x 430W panels - which is a lot as the panels will only be £330!
I know Joeboy used wooden rails, but not sure if that will be a good long term solution, and unistrut seems at least as expensive as the aluminium rails for new stuff - maybe ebay or FB marketplace might have 2nd hand stuff?

Timbers laid at a slight angle from level to allow water runoff, well treated with multiple coats of stain/anti-rot will last decades. Last time I installed PV on the house I was shocked at the cost of rails & fixings. Hundreds of pounds. Last lot on outbuilding? Zero.

The last timber set on outbuilding is now triple storm certified.

[Sim_C]

Trying to work out the best (cost effective) way to mount the panels to my shed roof.
City Plumbing have various rails, foot mounts, clamps etc - but I hadn't realised how expensive they are - currently will come to nearly £200 to mount 4 x 430W panels - which is a lot as the panels will only be £330!
I know Joeboy used wooden rails, but not sure if that will be a good long term solution, and unistrut seems at least as expensive as the aluminium rails for new stuff - maybe ebay or FB marketplace might have 2nd hand stuff?

I have just spent £300 (including delivery) on unistrut ready for mounting 6 panels vertically on a South facing wall, which I thought was rather steep but includes hot dipped galv strut for outside use, brackets to bolt it all togther along with stainless steel bolts and zebs. My design allows for differing heights of panels to reduce shading, and should be adjustable later with SS bolts/zebs.

Direct Channel was the best price I could find, and they did respond to provide a couple of missing parts from the shipment once I documented with photos.Not a recommendation, but it worked for me.

[richbee]

Trying to work out the best (cost effective) way to mount the panels to my shed roof.
City Plumbing have various rails, foot mounts, clamps etc - but I hadn't realised how expensive they are - currently will come to nearly £200 to mount 4 x 430W panels - which is a lot as the panels will only be £330!
I know Joeboy used wooden rails, but not sure if that will be a good long term solution, and unistrut seems at least as expensive as the aluminium rails for new stuff - maybe ebay or FB marketplace might have 2nd hand stuff?

I have just spent £300 (including delivery) on unistrut ready for mounting 6 panels vertically on a South facing wall, which I thought was rather steep but includes hot dipped galv strut for outside use, brackets to bolt it all togther along with stainless steel bolts and zebs. My design allows for differing heights of panels to reduce shading, and should be adjustable later with SS bolts/zebs.

Direct Channel was the best price I could find, and they did respond to provide a couple of missing parts from the shipment once I documented with photos.Not a recommendation, but it worked for me.

That sounds good for a flexible system.
I'm now thinking that a hybrid system might work best. My shed roof is wooden tongue & groove with felt shingles over the top, so doesn't need any special foot brackets.
I might get some of the Clenergy PV mounting rails from City plumbing (£20 each for 3.6m, and free delivery) and drill through them to screw directly into the roof (with sealant), then I can use the official mounting clips to secure the panels, but it saves almost 1/2 the cost not having the foot brackets

[ALAN/ALAN D]

Got the Balcony filled up so had to put 6 more panels some where else.
Was a bit windy / cold today. Did need Woooley hat on.
Just got to put the other four some where else.

[spread-tee]

Trying to work out the best (cost effective) way to mount the panels to my shed roof.
City Plumbing have various rails, foot mounts, clamps etc - but I hadn't realised how expensive they are - currently will come to nearly £200 to mount 4 x 430W panels - which is a lot as the panels will only be £330!
I know Joeboy used wooden rails, but not sure if that will be a good long term solution, and unistrut seems at least as expensive as the aluminium rails for new stuff - maybe ebay or FB marketplace might have 2nd hand stuff?

Timbers laid at a slight angle from level to allow water runoff, well treated with multiple coats of stain/anti-rot will last decades. Last time I installed PV on the house I was shocked at the cost of rails & fixings. Hundreds of pounds. Last lot on outbuilding? Zero.

The last timber set on outbuilding is now triple storm certified.

Another vote for a timber system here. I used 47*47 pressure treated timber cut to length, then dipped in 5 star preservative overnight, then glued and screwed and painted with exterior lesanol. All fixed down with stainless screws and ally brackets. To be fair though it is all reasonably accessible from the velux and shed roof so I can keep an eye on it.

[Marcus]

I mostly used unistut for my panels, but would consider larch or cedar wood, or even douglas fir as these woods last well without chemical treatments* , but i must admit i don't actually know how they compare to treated wood in terms of cost or longevity.

*for ground mount i would use something else for the part going into the ground: concrete/galv steel probably.