Idiot's guide to a self build battery
Re: Idiot's guide to a self build battery
Andy,
These guys supplied good quality 25mm2 cable. Rated to 170A.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/splitchargeuk
12 degs is a big difference in temp across a stack. Are the units airgapped between each other? Do you have passive air vents in the powershed walls to allow airflow through? I used a couple in our cabin and they are excellent. 90 deg turn and bugscreen on them stainless steel, fit and forget.
These guys supplied good quality 25mm2 cable. Rated to 170A.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/splitchargeuk
12 degs is a big difference in temp across a stack. Are the units airgapped between each other? Do you have passive air vents in the powershed walls to allow airflow through? I used a couple in our cabin and they are excellent. 90 deg turn and bugscreen on them stainless steel, fit and forget.
19.7kW PV SE, VI, HM, EN & DW
Ripple 7kW WT & Gen to date 19MWh
42kWh LFPO4 storage
95kWh Heater storage
12kWh 210ltr HWT.
73kWh HI5
Deep insulation, air leak ct'd home
Zoned GCH & Hive 2
WBSx2
Low energy bulbs
Veg patches & fruit trees
Ripple 7kW WT & Gen to date 19MWh
42kWh LFPO4 storage
95kWh Heater storage
12kWh 210ltr HWT.
73kWh HI5
Deep insulation, air leak ct'd home
Zoned GCH & Hive 2
WBSx2
Low energy bulbs
Veg patches & fruit trees
Re: Idiot's guide to a self build battery
Well, sort of
£50 "installation" charge applied - not a bad deal for an "installer" to travel (cough) all the way from Coventry to Cornwall to "fit" them me thinks. Oddly its refundsble as well once "installed" and evidence provided.
4.0kw FIT PV solar Sunnyboy 4000tl & 7 x 570w JA solar panels
7.08kw JA Solar panels & Sunsynk ECCO 3.6kw.
7 x US5000 Pylontechs.
4500l RWH
Full Biomass heating system
iBoost HW divertor
Full house internal walls insulation
600min Loft insulation
7.08kw JA Solar panels & Sunsynk ECCO 3.6kw.
7 x US5000 Pylontechs.
4500l RWH
Full Biomass heating system
iBoost HW divertor
Full house internal walls insulation
600min Loft insulation
Re: Idiot's guide to a self build battery
12x 340W JA Solar panels (4.08kWp)
3x 380W JA Solar panels (1.14kWp)
5x 2.4kWh Pylontech batteries (12kWh)
LuxPower inverter/charger
(Artist formally known as ******, well it should be obvious enough to those for whom such things are important.)
3x 380W JA Solar panels (1.14kWp)
5x 2.4kWh Pylontech batteries (12kWh)
LuxPower inverter/charger
(Artist formally known as ******, well it should be obvious enough to those for whom such things are important.)
Re: Idiot's guide to a self build battery
Quite silly realy but can happily dad dance around the rules if needed to save a few quid.
Worked out @ £1109 per battery, including the associated brackets.
Worked out @ £1109 per battery, including the associated brackets.
4.0kw FIT PV solar Sunnyboy 4000tl & 7 x 570w JA solar panels
7.08kw JA Solar panels & Sunsynk ECCO 3.6kw.
7 x US5000 Pylontechs.
4500l RWH
Full Biomass heating system
iBoost HW divertor
Full house internal walls insulation
600min Loft insulation
7.08kw JA Solar panels & Sunsynk ECCO 3.6kw.
7 x US5000 Pylontechs.
4500l RWH
Full Biomass heating system
iBoost HW divertor
Full house internal walls insulation
600min Loft insulation
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- Location: Lincolnshire
Re: Idiot's guide to a self build battery
Hi, is something that they are happy to provide to people generally? I might be tempted myself if that’s the case
Re: Idiot's guide to a self build battery
Yeah, I wasn't that happy about it and added a 100mm fan to take the air from the top of the room and dump it under the battery stack. It runs 24/7 and supposedly the bearings are good for 7 years.Joeboy wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 7:25 am 12 degs is a big difference in temp across a stack. Are the units airgapped between each other? Do you have passive air vents in the powershed walls to allow airflow through? I used a couple in our cabin and they are excellent. 90 deg turn and bugscreen on them stainless steel, fit and forget.
Unfortunately I was so focussed on the 25ºC being optimum for the battery I insulated and studded out the small shed. It was during the build I realised that 18kW of solar is going to produce well over 1kW of heating with losses. This combined with the internal dimensions of the shed being 2m x 1.2 x 2m high means there is a huge gradient from bottom to top of the room. Passive cooling would never keep up with the heat produced at peak production. I also have two powerful 6 inch fans which are temperature controlled removing air from the top of the shed to keep it at 25 degrees. I had thought of using an air conditioning unit but they use a lot more power than the fans.
I have also considered removing the studs/insulation which will give me another 45cm or so in each dimension. This wouldn't fix the temperature but would give me more space which I desperately need. That requires days of rewiring and I'm not even sure the wires would be long enough in places. Maybe I'll consider doing it when the quattro is away for fixing. It's annoying as obviously the stud work/hardibackers came to quite a bit in cost. Instead I could have nice fire proof brick walls and be done with it.
I've even got underfloor heating embedded in the slab which hasn't been on since keeping the batteries warm before full commissioning.
Re: Idiot's guide to a self build battery
Thanks, I'll check them out.Joeboy wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 7:25 am These guys supplied good quality 25mm2 cable. Rated to 170A.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/splitchargeuk
Re: Idiot's guide to a self build battery
Where is the air coming in from? I'd remove the 100mm fan and set one of the 6" driven fans on the opposite side of the room. Looking to pull cold air in directly from outside and expel it out the top at the other side.Andy wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 11:36 amYeah, I wasn't that happy about it and added a 100mm fan to take the air from the top of the room and dump it under the battery stack. It runs 24/7 and supposedly the bearings are good for 7 years.Joeboy wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 7:25 am 12 degs is a big difference in temp across a stack. Are the units airgapped between each other? Do you have passive air vents in the powershed walls to allow airflow through? I used a couple in our cabin and they are excellent. 90 deg turn and bugscreen on them stainless steel, fit and forget.
Unfortunately I was so focussed on the 25ºC being optimum for the battery I insulated and studded out the small shed. It was during the build I realised that 18kW of solar is going to produce well over 1kW of heating with losses. This combined with the internal dimensions of the shed being 2m x 1.2 x 2m high means there is a huge gradient from bottom to top of the room. Passive cooling would never keep up with the heat produced at peak production. I also have two powerful 6 inch fans which are temperature controlled removing air from the top of the shed to keep it at 25 degrees. I had thought of using an air conditioning unit but they use a lot more power than the fans.
I have also considered removing the studs/insulation which will give me another 45cm or so in each dimension. This wouldn't fix the temperature but would give me more space which I desperately need. That requires days of rewiring and I'm not even sure the wires would be long enough in places. Maybe I'll consider doing it when the quattro is away for fixing. It's annoying as obviously the stud work/hardibackers came to quite a bit in cost. Instead I could have nice fire proof brick walls and be done with it.
I've even got underfloor heating embedded in the slab which hasn't been on since keeping the batteries warm before full commissioning.
Last edited by Joeboy on Sun Feb 11, 2024 1:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
19.7kW PV SE, VI, HM, EN & DW
Ripple 7kW WT & Gen to date 19MWh
42kWh LFPO4 storage
95kWh Heater storage
12kWh 210ltr HWT.
73kWh HI5
Deep insulation, air leak ct'd home
Zoned GCH & Hive 2
WBSx2
Low energy bulbs
Veg patches & fruit trees
Ripple 7kW WT & Gen to date 19MWh
42kWh LFPO4 storage
95kWh Heater storage
12kWh 210ltr HWT.
73kWh HI5
Deep insulation, air leak ct'd home
Zoned GCH & Hive 2
WBSx2
Low energy bulbs
Veg patches & fruit trees
Re: Idiot's guide to a self build battery
25mm is the same size as the standard pylontech cables, they get warm at 100A and hot at 120A. If your thinking of a continuous max over 100A I would be going to 35mm or even 50mm. I was shocked when you earlier mentioned “future proofing” at 25mm.Andy wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 11:51 amThanks, I'll check them out.Joeboy wrote: ↑Sun Feb 11, 2024 7:25 am These guys supplied good quality 25mm2 cable. Rated to 170A.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/splitchargeuk
It’s not just the cables that generate heat, but the isolators, fuses, crimp connectors, etc.
I have 70mm cables to my main 8kW battery inverter and 50mm intermediates to each of my battery banks. I used to use 35mm for my intermediates but they got too warm for my liking if I was running only off a single bank at 150A so I upgraded to 50mm.
18.7kW PV > 109MWh generated
Ripple 6.6kW Wind + 4.5kW PV > 26MWh generated
5 Other RE Coop's
105kWh EV storage
60kWh Home battery storage
40kWh Thermal storage
GSHP + A2A HP's
Rain water use > 510 m3
Ripple 6.6kW Wind + 4.5kW PV > 26MWh generated
5 Other RE Coop's
105kWh EV storage
60kWh Home battery storage
40kWh Thermal storage
GSHP + A2A HP's
Rain water use > 510 m3